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#SuzyMFW: Armani: Rhapsody In Blue

作者:Suzy Menkes 編輯:張一杰 時間:2019年2月27日
內容來源:VOGUE時尚網  圖片來源:VOGUE國際網站:英國

文章導讀

Showing in his Silos for the first time, the Giorgio message was sweet, sleek and gentle

敬請期待中文版

Giorgio Armani walks the runway to applause after his autumn/winter 2019 show

Getty Image

Graceful, peaceful – and I wanted to show it here,” said Giorgio Armani, after taking a walk and a final bow down the low runway in his Silos, the first time he has staged the show in the living museum opposite his Milan headquarters.

‘Rhapsody in Blue’ was the name of the show, and the title could not have seemed more relevant, as models of both sexes walked the runway in slim and sporty clothes that were edged in blue: perhaps a trim on the edge of a jacket leading down to trousers that spread gently at the thighs like riding breeches.

Blue in all its shades was in the spotlight, along with Armani's palette of satin, velvet and other soft fabrics

Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

The blue shading was much more prevalent for women than for men, who filled the show with those famous body-tracing suits. Double-breasted jackets and skinny trousers, they were deliberately sober compared to the slightly quirkier women’s silhouette.

The result was absolutely and indisputably Armani: in its silhouettes, in its fabrics, as when a female model swung a velvet jacket across herself like a cloak. The men were sexier in their body-traced suits. The women were whimsical: a squishy beret here, a chunky necklace or bags gathered into a squashed shape there.

While Armani (synonymous with dressing Academy Award nominees) was showing his Giorgio collection in Milan, Glenn Close – his loyal fan – was celebrating at the Giorgio Armani boutique on Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles. It was all part of the exclusive Oscar 2019 festivities for her best actress nomination in 'The Wife'. Here, dressed in Giorgio Armani, she poses with the film's director, Bj?rn Runge

Giorgio Armani

Over the years, the designer has liquidised his signature look with soft fabrics, such as satin and velvet. For the autumn/winter 2019 season, perhaps with the Oscars in mind, silvered stripes appear red on the jackets and a cascade of mirrored necklaces gleamed at the front.

Slim and sexy clothes were in the mix of Armani's blues for men and women

Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

What is the essence of Armani style? It can best be described as an absolute lack of vulgarity, and that in a world that dotes on body focus and bling. For men, it is easy to offer a puffer jacket (blue, of course!) over taught sweater and light trousers. Casual effects for women mean short, zippered jackets paired with velvet trousers.

It was all a clear message from the designer: in this era of millennials' new sensitivity to sexual fluidity, he stands for sexual definition, but oh-so softly. For an example, Armani showed a female puffer coat, sporty, but its surface was worked with rows of super-soft protuberances. A blue top and trousers were patterned like waves of water. Silk and velvet, first sporty then, later, puffy and glamorous, outshone the men’s clothes, but they looked contemporary,

Armani made clear his preference for sexual definition, but did so gently

Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

This show was a long, but beautiful, master class in modern elegance. There were no constrictions, none of the newly fashionable couture puffed-up shapes. Even the Oscar-ready outfits at the close of the show were slender columns of velvet, satin, and lace with dense decoration.

The show was an exercise in serene beauty. And the audience, clapping wildly, was surely saying ‘Amen’ – or perhaps that should be ‘Armani’ – to all that.

A short scarlet skirt is set off by a bulky black sweater (left) and the sporty-but-cute look in the Emporio collection

Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Emporio Armani: a study in contrasts

The scarlet, burnt umber and newly fashionable orange at the Emporio Armani show was an exercise in colour – and in energy. The models in their tailored jackets over brief skirts, or black sweaters paired with scarlet satin shorts, were all blowing a bugle for youth.

Orange emerges as a fashionable colour for this season in the Emporio collection

Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Similar shapes, patterned with digitally designed florals, or shown as sweater-and-pants, were all parts of a show made to be seen in vibrant motion. The long, flat-level runway made the show seem sporty, but cute, with legs, mostly seen below the short skirts or inside skinny trousers.

Digitally designed floral prints pointed to a youthful customer base

Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

This was an example of Armani light: playful and easy. But the core was, as ever, his belief in dressing women for work and play. The collection could have taken as its motto: start them young!

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