<cite id="1xvx5"><video id="1xvx5"><menuitem id="1xvx5"></menuitem></video></cite>
<cite id="1xvx5"></cite>
<cite id="1xvx5"></cite>
<var id="1xvx5"></var>
<cite id="1xvx5"><strike id="1xvx5"><thead id="1xvx5"></thead></strike></cite>
<var id="1xvx5"><strike id="1xvx5"><listing id="1xvx5"></listing></strike></var>
<var id="1xvx5"></var>
<cite id="1xvx5"><video id="1xvx5"><thead id="1xvx5"></thead></video></cite>
<cite id="1xvx5"><strike id="1xvx5"><thead id="1xvx5"></thead></strike></cite>
<var id="1xvx5"></var><var id="1xvx5"></var><var id="1xvx5"></var>

您現在的位置: 首頁     >    時裝發布    >    Suzy Menkes專欄

#SuzyLFW Mary Katrantzou: The Meaning Of Milestones

作者:Suzy Menkes 編輯:張一杰 時間:2018年9月19日
內容來源:VOGUE時尚網  圖片來源:VOGUE國際網站:英國

文章導讀

The ebullient designer tidies up the plants down memory lane

敬請期待中文版

Mary Katrantzou's Spring/Summer 2019 collection reinterpreted and reconfigured pieces from her archive to create something new but with a recognisable signature

Aiker Aldama / InDigital.TV

I recognised it all – the references to Mary Katrantzou’s work over the past 10 years in fashion.

There were the stamps, now put in tidy, graphic lines; the flower specimens laid out with the finesse of an archivist; bank notes as served by some magical money machine.

Backstage at Mary Katrantzou Spring/Summer 2019 - the new "Stamp" dresses

Sonny Vandevelde

In retrospect, it is easy to see that the designer was at the forefront of a novel design wave: the digital patterns of new technology that have flooded the markets.

But Mary embraced the new media with intelligence, then and now, when almost every one of her ebullient patterns was contained within straight lines. It was as if she had taken elements from previous collections and mixed them into something new.

The thread was clear to follow – not just when the show ended with a central tent in London’s Roundhouse opening to reveal actual examples of earlier collections, but also because Mary developed her signature look so early on. It is just easier to read it now, in retrospect.

Archive pieces from the past 10 years of Mary Katrantzou's label. The key looks were explored and updated for the Spring/Summer 2019 collection

Aiker Aldama / InDigital.TV

In fashion it is not easy to continue to do what you believe in and build it as a business.

Backstage, the ebullient designer answered questions about her work in a stream of consciousness.

“My favourite is the perfume bottles, because it was the first-ever show we did at London Fashion Week and that was the moment I realised that I could set up my own business. So that was special.”

“We accentuated the silhouette because back then [ten years ago], the ‘Perfume’ dress was an hourglass shift-dress and now it is structured and hand-knitted. We just wanted a moment where people who saw the ‘Perfume’ dresses tonight and who were also there ten years ago, would go ‘Ohhh! That’s a memory of something that we know!’”

Mary Katrantzou's famous "Perfume" dresses, updated for Spring/Summer 2019 as a knitted shift with a cinched waist

Sonny Vandevelde

Mary described her motivation behind the collection as an exploration of “the relationship between the pieces that we showed before that were referenced in the collection that walked today. So it was actually a dialogue between [existing] pieces and templates of pieces that are part of this season.”

This reworking – or rather further development – of earlier ideas was an interesting moment for the designer. “I was pleased to have the opportunity to look back and say, ‘I want to bring that back.’ I wanted to present it in a completely different context to what I did then, and to cross-pollinate between different seasons. That is why we did the stamps and the long jewellery.”

A wearable gemstone in Swarovski crystal by Mary Katrantzou Spring/Summer 2019

Yannis Viamos / InDigital.TV

As to any whisperings of recycling design, Mary explained, “There are lots of ideas and references that we have used in the past, so there is a recognisability, but without using a silhouette that we have done before in that particular reference. I wanted newness, and we are not getting embroiled in looking back at what we have already done.”

The overall impression of the collection was that Mary has blossomed not only into an accomplished designer, but businesswoman too. “My fondest memory of the past ten years is the realisation that walking to work every day I am happy. I was so stressed at the beginning! Now I’m really happy to be here!”

Mary Katrantzou takes a victory lap after the presentation of her Spring/Summer 2019 collection

Yannis Viamos / InDigital.TV

轉載聲明

本內容系VOGUE時尚網原創或經官方授權編譯轉載,嚴禁以任何形式或方法轉載或使用,違者追究法律責任。

將本文分享到

你可能還會喜歡

更多相關網站內容

關注官方微信
VOGUE VIP專享
開啟互動之旅

將文章:#SuzyLFW Mary Katrantzou: The Meaning Of Milestones
喜歡到個人空間我的喜歡中。

喜歡理由:

喜歡成功

經驗: +2 , 金幣 +2

您的喜歡已完成,如您需要查看或者管理喜歡列表,
請點擊"個人空間" "喜歡"

已經喜歡

 

您的喜歡已完成,如您需要查看或者管理喜歡列表,
請點擊"個人空間" "喜歡"

av片在线播放,av片在线观看,av视频在线观看,av网站大全 欧美牲交a欧美牲交aⅴ免费真| av免费不卡国产观看| 亚洲制服师生 中文字幕| 国内少妇高潮嗷嗷叫在线播放| 旗袍丝袜玉腿扛起来进入| 一炕四女| 高潮狂喷痉挛在线视频| 午夜神器18以下不能进免费| bl好大撑坏了np| 在线αv片男人的天堂| 7723在线影院| 夫妇野外交换HD高清版| 芳芳好紧好滑好湿好爽| 丰满老熟妇牲交| 强奷绝色年轻女教师| 欧美日韩国产码高清综合一区| 韩国无码av片在线电影网站| 日本av视频| 骚虎视频在线观看| 少妇的丰满3中文字幕| 亚洲自偷自拍另类第1页| 秋av免费| 美女学生精品国自产拍| 午夜免费福利小电影| 水滴真实偷拍高潮视频| 内衣办公室动漫| 美女脱衣服| 香港三级视频手机免费版| 一胎双宝总裁大人夜夜欢| 日本高清乱理伦片中文字幕| 97视频在线精品国自产拍| http://www.time-and-places.com